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EYES ON ASTANA


On July 6th Kazakhstan proudly celebrates Capital City Day honouring its capital, Astana, with a week of cultural festivities. The activities will highlight Kazakh culture and history and the city's central position in the nation's life. Astana has grown from a small provincial city to an influential player of the 21st century. Last year thousands of tourists from more than twenty three countries came to experience this hidden pearl of the Eurasian steppe. Many guests are similarly expected to attend this year's colourful festivities.

Kazakh artist Leyla Mahat (1970) with her diptych ' Cloudy in the Steppe" 2010. mixed media at National Art Gallery of Astana - Photograph © 2015 Ülle Baum

Kazakh artist Leyla Mahat (1970) in front of  her work  at National Art Gallery of Astana - Photograph © 2015 Ülle BaumTourists enjoy walk through the new  National Museum of Kazakhstan - Photograph © 2015 Ülle Baum

 

Astana was selected to be the capital of Kazakhstan in 1997 when the capital was officially moved from Almaty in the south to this more strategic location in the centre north of the country. The move was not easy. Many people in Kazakhstan had to be convinced that the decision was the correct one. Today's Astana represents a vision of a new Kazakhstan, a vision of brave architectural modernity and progress. It was built on the historic northern route of the famous ancient Silk Road which connected East and West, bringing silk and tea and spices and all manner of treasure to Russia and Europe. Astana is truly a bridge between worlds.

 

President of the Republic of Kazakhstan Nursultan Nazarbayev arrives and prepares to cast his ballot at  Astana's polling station on April 26th 2015. Many citizens were standing in long queues at polling stations across the country. Kazkakhstan's Central Election Commision ( CEC) claimed this year a record turnout of 95.22 percent for the poll. President was re-elected with 97.7 percent of the vote - Photograph © 2015 Ülle BaumIt was just a few years ago when I first saw the images of a startling, gleaming new city centre at the reception for the Independence Day of the Republic Kazakhstan at Ottawa's Chateau Laurier Hotel. Astana is an example, that thinking big and having the courage to follow your dreams is important for the future of a nation. The city's modern look represents the dynamically developing country.

Astana is the first capital built in 21st century and was planned to be a national centre. Fifty architects and urban planners took part in the international competition for the master plan and design of the city. On October 6th 1998 Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa was awarded the First Prize. The first and current President of the Republic of Kazakhstan Nursultan Nazarbayev, the city's unofficial chief architect has taken an active part in this ambitious project since the very beginning. Prize-winning British architect Norman Foster is one of many foreigners who helped to shape the grandiose city where various building styles have been harmoniously combined.

Kazakh traditional handycrafts were born in front of your eyes at  Astana's ethno-village 'Zeiruik". Tourists were able to purchace the national  art work also at  the  Khan Shatyr  mall,   at  the National Museum of Kazakhstan and many other local souvenir stores. Last minute  opportunity to pick up some souvenirs is also provided at the Astana International Airport - Photograph © 2015 Ülle BaumA Kazakh lady all in smiles  with the T-shirt ' I love Astana' after casting her ballot on   election day on April 26th in front of the polling station - Photograph © 2015 Ülle BaumDuring my trip to Astana this spring I visited the iconic pyramid designed by the British architects Foster and Partners, the Palace of Peace and Harmony and I was amazed by this extraordinary building that could withstand expansion and contraction due to temperature variations of over 80 degrees from -40 to plus 40 Celsius leading to an expansion of the building of up to 30 cm in this world second coldest capital city. The construction is steel frame for the pyramid and concrete for the lower levels. The glass pyramid was specially built to host the Congress of Leaders of World and Traditional Religions: Judaism, Islam, Christianity, Buddhism, Hinduism, Daoism and other faiths. About two hundred delegates from the world meet every three years in a circular chamber where a flock of doves flutters on a stained-glass ceiling. The Fifth Congress of Leaders of World and Traditional Religions took place there just a few weeks ago on 10-11 June. This new 77 metre high venue was built in 2004-2006 and also includes a 1,500-seat theatre, a national museum of culture and research centre for the country's 140 ethnic groups.

A plate with traditional Kazakh dish , based on nomatic roots, horse meat and mutton as basis of majority of Kazakh national dishes served in modern  restaurant in Astana - Photograph © 2015 Ülle BaumIt was an absolute delight to walk through the Khan Shatyr , the world's largest tent. It was also designed by the British architects Foster and Partners and completed by 2010. The Khan Shatyr Entertainment Center was originally constructed to provide the city with a range of cultural, leisure, shopping and social facilities, including restaurants, cinemas, an indoor beach and large water park, all sheltered within a climatic envelope that offers a similar comfortable microclimate all year round despite city's extremes of climate. The building's tented structure reflects Kazakh history, as the yurt structure is a traditional nomadic building form. The view of the finished building only hints at the range of the challenges faced during the construction of such a unique project. It provides high quality natural light during the day and is lit up with colourful lights at night.

New National Museum of Kazakhstan. Astana now has its own Louvre. The museum has several halls - Astana, gold, ethnography, independent Kazakhstan and others - Photograph © 2015 Ülle BaumOne of the highlights of my trip was a visit to Astana Opera House. It is the world's third largest opera house and the pride of the country. The first stone was laid in 2010 and was completed in short time by 2013. It was built by the Swiss Mabetex Group, headed by Behgjet Pacolli working with a team of the best architects from around the world. The design of the building is a mix of Greco-Roman classicism and Baroque, with Kazakh national motifs included in the architecture of the building in a fascinating balance of styles. The majestic front of the opera house brings to mind the famous Pantheon and the Bolshoi Theatre. The level of the architectural excellence of the theatre is equal to leading opera houses of the world, such as La Scala in Milan, the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow and the Metropolitan Opera in New York. The technical capabilities the theatre meets all international standards and at times surpasses many world theatres. A team of leading acoustics experts from Italy and Germany worked on the sound qualities of the building. The main lobby, foyer, auditoriums and the main stage of the theatre are executed in the style of high classicism. The main auditorium of the theatre is designed for 1,250 people in a 19th century-style setting. The theatre also has a chamber music hall that can accommodate two hundred and fifty people and the building has numerous rehearsal rooms.

I attended a performance of Birzhan-Sara, an opera by the famous Kazakh composer Mukan Tolebayev, a classic Kazakh love story. It was a grand performance ending with a standing ovation. It is the same opera which was performed at the official opening on June 21st, 2013.

New National Museum of Kazakhstan in its full beauty - Photograph © 2015 Ülle Baum
It was fascinating to learn more about Kazakh culture and customs at the open public ethno-village “Zheruik” in a very welcoming atmosphere. I saw the yurts, decorated with the impressive national handicrafts and admired the local artists creating unique and colourful pieces of art in front of my eyes. It was also an opportunity to listen to the performance of excellent musicians dressed in a beautiful traditional costumes . This was the first time when I heard the sounds of the dombra, a long-necked lute and national music string instrument. Everything I touched during my trip brought me closer to this unique and amazing ancient culture and to it's roots. Kazakhstan celebrates this year more than half a millennium of statehood.

Kazakh national musical instrument dombra sounds magical at  Astana's ethno-village 'Zeiruik" - Photograph © 2015 Ülle BaumKazakh eagle at the ethno-village ' Zheruik" with a brave and proud  Kazakh - Photograph © 2015 Ülle Baum

There was so much to discover during this short trip. The magical futuristic view of the city has still remained so vivid in my memories. The new Presidential Palace, Baiterek Tower – symbol of Astana, the brand new 74,000 square metre National Museum with all the jewels of the ancestors of Kazakh people and the National Art Gallery of Astana each of them being part of the rich mosaic of this city. The ultra modern face of the city not only represents strong national identity, independent statehood, but also demonstrates the economic and financial power of the country as whole.

The circular chamber inside the iconic pyramid , the Palace of Peace and Harmony designed by British architects Foster and Partners. The Fifth Congress of Leadres of World and Traditional Religions took place in this venue on 10-11 June 2015 - Photograph © 2015 Ülle BaumSince the 1991, the Kazakhstan's per-capita GDP has grown about twenty times and has reached $13,00 per capita. Total foreign investment attracted during past nine years has reached two hundred and three billion dollars.

The Khan Shatyr Entertainment Centre - the world largest tent was designed by British architects Foster and Partners. It was built in Astana in 2010. The word "Astana"  means " Capital " in Kazakh language - Photograph © 2015 Ülle Baum

Beautiful Kazmunaigas Building is home  to Oil and Gas Ministry of Kazakhstan - Photograph © 2015 Ülle Baum
Astana, the political capital of Kazakhstan is the host for the EXPO in 2017 and celebrates its 20th anniversary at the same time. The theme of Astana's EXPO is Energy for the Future and will open the window to the future with new alternative options More than twenty six countries have already confirmed their participation at EXPO-2017, among them Germany, Lithuania, France, Switzerland, Israel, India, South-Korea, Japan, Turkey, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Belarus, Hungary, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Monaco, Senegal, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Russia and Georgia. Three International organizations – The United Nations Economic and Social Commission for Asia and the Pacific (ESCAP), The Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) have confirmed their participation as well at the exhibition in Astana. By end of the 2015 the organizers hope to get confirmations from about 60-70 countries.

97m- high  Baiterek Tower  is an observation tower and monument, that represents folktale about mythical tree of life and a magic bird of happiness. According to the legend a bird Samruk would lay a golden egg on top of every tree that was out of reach to humans. All the secrets of human desire and passion were hidden inside the egg, as well as answers to all their dreams for the future - Photograph © 2015 Ülle Baum Beautiful dynamic view of the  Astana Opera House - Photograph © 2015 Ülle Baum

All eyes are on Astana as the city gets ready for this important international event and reinforces the brand of Kazakhstan as an emergent nation in the global community. This big, rapidly modernizing and resource-rich economy has been listed as one of the rising new economic powerhouses in the world. There is consensus among economists that Kazakhstan is going to be among the top 30 most developed countries in the world by 2025 thanks to its high economic performance, rich resource base and positive dynamics.

  

Ülle Baum